I’ve spent days on old, slow-moving, diesel-fueled dive boats without problems.
Today was a different story…
Stacy tries her hand, unsuccessfully, at diving with the great white shark. 2017, Cape Town, South Africa. Photo/Stacy McCloud.
Like everyone, I have a bucket list that I am constantly adding to, improvising, and adjusting. Diving with the great white shark is on the top of my list. Well...it was.
I have swum with many species of shark, scuba dived with a handful of man-eaters, and unknowingly been in the dangerous proximity of the tiger shark and bull shark. These are the two most deadly man-eaters.
Any Jaws fan will tell you that the movie is loosely based on the actual events of a man-eater. One of the top oceanic apex predators is the bull shark. This shark prefers to hunt at dusk and dawn in shallow waters. This is the shark who inspired the blockbuster movie.
Belize, 2003—I frolicked in the same water at dusk that two bull sharks were pulled from just hours later. We visited The Rainbow Bar on Caye Caulker—a local establishment famous for its panty ripper drinks. A few of those and I had no inhibitions being in the sharks’ hunting ground at their dinner time. By fortune, I had danced my rum-filled brain back to shore prior to the arrival of the murderous duo that were hanging by their tails the following morning.
Maui, Hawaii, 2007—My husband, myself, and a master diver friend of ours noticed some natives swiftly swam past us, splashing on shore trying furiously to get our attention. We were diving in a turtle washing station in shallow water just 60 yards off the beach when we noticed them. Frantically motioning us to come in, we headed ashore. Arriving at the beach, the natives asked if we had seen the 15-foot tiger shark that was following us through the sandbars. We had not. Tiger sharks often attack out of curiosity; their ferocity is not rivaled by many other shark species. They can detect one drop of blood in an area of water the size of an Olympic swimming pool. I was having girl issues at that time, and unbeknownst to me, I had nearly made us the main course at the shark’s dinner party.
2017, Cape Town, South Africa—I became obsessed with the “flying sharks” that can jump skywards of 15 feet out of the water to reach their prey. Boat tour operators estimate that 80% of viewers will get up and personal for at least 5 minutes with a great white while in a surface cage. The cost for this expedition is roughly $600 per person. I. AM. IN…And I’m taking my parents and husband with me. This is on the tippy top of my bucket list! We arrive at the outfitters, and along with 10 other participants, we slip into our wetsuits. Everyone is excited and ready to experience the great whites. We lumber to the boat like a dozen poorly dressed seals ready to tease the apex of the ocean by dressing like their favorite morsel.
Our slow-moving, ancient, diesel-fueled boat chugs along for an hour to reach the destination where the whites were last spotted. Including our crew, our boat holds a baker’s dozen plus a few additional crumbs. The swells were so intense that the captain struggled to maintain a position. We were rocking from port to starboard while being pummeled by 20-foot waves. The little vessel was folding in on itself from side to side at a 45-degree angle all the while expelling noxious diesel fumes.
I’ve spent days on old, slow-moving, diesel-fueled dive boats without problems. Today was a different story. I found the shore and focused on a stationary object. We had spent $2,500 dollars to see a great white up close and to dive with the apex of the ocean. I was hellbent on maintaining composure and keeping my breakfast—scrambled eggs, black coffee, and orange juice—from making an appearance. The overwhelming inhalation of toxic fumes chugging out of the ancient and unmaintained engine, the smell of the fish used for chum, and the rigorous swells were overcoming my brain, balance, and body. My composure was failing. The sickness started with a splitting headache, mainly due to the fumes, I guess.
Stacy McCloud on a much more relaxing boat trip. Photo/Stacy McCloud
I apologized to my husband as I grabbed the starboard side of the boat, knowing I was about to expel breakfast at the next downside of the watery mountain. I prepared to heave hard, fast, and far away from my body. I vomited violently, hoping for relief. My breakfast chum was thrown 6 feet from me. I prayed for respite and found none. I looked at the other “seals” on the boat who were horrifically observing my display. I braced for the next rocking of the boat and prepared for the oncoming evacuation. I expertly expelled the contents of my being without getting anything on myself. This would not pass. I glanced at the two neoprene-wrapped, proper English ladies as I grasped the side of the boat, bracing for another downward spiral. Out of the corner of my eyes I watched them white knuckle the boat and prepare for the descent. They vomited turbulently in unison over the side. I. AM. A. LEADER. Into a hurl of epic proportions, I am about to lead the entire shark-seeking vessel. The smell of the salty sea heavy in the air with drafts of diesel, chum, and freshly spilled vomit filled the nostrils of everyone aboard.
With tear filled eyes, I looked at my statuesque parents as my husband gently rubbed my back to console me. I made eye contact with the party of three next to them, and before I turned around, the trio started vigorously heaving over the port side. This went on for about 10 more wave revolutions until everyone on the boat, short of my husband and parents, was infected with my nausea and joined in on the great exodus of Cape Town. My husband forcefully encouraged the captain to return to the dock, full throttle ahead.
The ride back was expedited by a boat filled with crying and hurling tourists. It still took 30 regurgitation-filled minutes to get back to the dock. Wobbling from the boat, we arrived to see a great white strung up on a dock lifted by its tail. The shark had been shot and angled after attempting to eat the contents of the boat that departed at the same time we did. The cage inhabitants were shaken and mortified. Their cage had been bent by the 17-foot angry predator bashing it and retrieving them from the metal-frame sarcophagus had been a physical feat.
Considering we didn’t see a great white on our expedition—and not that it was my fault for starting The Great Regurgitation of 2017—we were offered vouchers to return within a year for half off the original cost. The memory still makes me nauseated. This is one bucket list item that may never be checked off because the thought of returning is absolutely shark raving mad!